Words in sorrow (about the eviction of the Stone Warehouse at the port of Piraeus)

I write being at the moment unsure, numb and bitter. I write being emotionally implicated, but trying to take a step back and consider the situation.

I have heard tremendous things since yesterday, which I am not going to recycle here. But I believe most of them, because they were told by people who have also dedicated a, bigger or smaller, part of their life to being there daily, contributing, helping. They are my people; and I am theirs.

Refugees came today, the 14th of July, for breakfast as always. Less people though. And it was quite, too quite for what we are used to. My little girl ran to me for a hug, insecurity and confusion shadowing her eyes. The kids' inexhaustible energy that we usually find hard to deal with was not there today. We finished the distribution fast at E1, having nothing to say one to the other.

The Stone Warehouse evicted and locked since yesterday, 13th July 2016.

I walked to the Warehouse, where the distribution was not finished yet. Also very quite. The building itself is no locked, and some tents remain only outside, at the back of the Warehouse. People were taking their breakfast and were walking towards their tents; the "lucky ones" whose tents yetserday were not considered standing in an "unsuitable place". Only then I realised that within the coming days I will start noticing absences during the food distribution, I will be expecting to see faces that I will more probably never see again.

I was not at the port myslef yesterday. I found out what happened at the evening from friends, outraged and speechless most of them. The Warehouse was never a good place for people to live in, but for the past six months, in a state of "emergency", it was hosting around 300 refugees. Yesterday they were obliged, without a former notice, without time to pack their belongings, to evacuate it. They had the alternative to be moved to another camp - Oinofyta from what I would hear later, some tents in the fields away from Athens... Were they informed, did somebody explain to them the reasons, did anyone guarantee that there the conditions would be better? Eventually, afraid and disorientated, most of them tried to find shelter elsewhere at the port, between burning sun and dry concrete. Word spreads that many people lost important legal documents during the procedure.

The tents allowed to remain at the "suitable place", at the back of the Stone Warehouse.

There is a limit to what you can witness; and I have started to cross mine. Six months of volunteering and working at the port, finding balances between these two, I have seen and heard a lot; terrible and miraculous things simultaneously. You become stronger and stiff yourself in order to endure the pressure and do what you are supposed to no matter the conditions: help the people. But yesterday and today, for the first time, I feel helpless myself. I have no answers for anyone who might be asking "why", "what's happening", "what's to come next". I have no excuses and no understanding anymore. Whoever is in chanrge is not around to inform and reassure the people. We are seeing ships departing and returning daily, but the refugees are stuck there; an image of irony. Travellers are coming and going all day, but they are just waiting for the relocation or resettlemet process to conclude, for someone to responsibly update them on their current situation and future options. So many people and yet noone is truly there for them. The port should have been evacuated months ago, before summer's arrival. Right now extreme heat and travelling congestion make the living conditions there unhealthy and dangerous. We are stuck and once in a while selectively evicted.

It is subhuman to deprive someone's last goodbye to people who have been helping them for months, to the ones who built a routine with them. I am already thinking of the possible faces which I am not going to see again and a worry is growing inside of me about the others; when is going to be the last time to see them too? My smile has faded, and I have no way to explain this to the kids when they will come running to me in the evening, asking for some play. I feel a little bit subhuman myself today. Witnessing this fate without being able to make a change. Witnessing without believing in my own powers anymore. Witnessing without being able to stand any longer.

Almost a month ago, at the 22nd of June, the gate E1 was also evacuated, though not forcefully. The 600-700 refugees hosted there had to move their tents under the bridge facing the Stone Warehouse, the new "suitable place". Many of them have left the port on their own since then.

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Έγκλημα στη Σαμοθράκη

Συγκλονιστικές είναι οι εξελίξεις σχετικά με το μέχρι στιγμής ανεξιχνίαστο έγκλημα στη Σαμοθράκη. Η σωρός του Μολδαβού επιχειρηματία βρέθηκε τελικά σε δύσβατο κομμάτι του βράχου Βρυχού, περιφερειακά του οικισμού της Χώρας. Η αστυνομία κάνει λόγο για δολοφονία, αλλά δεν έχει δώσει προς το παρόν λεπτομέρειες για τυχόν υπόπτους ή για τον τρόπο που αφαιρέθηκε η ζωή του θύματος! Ρίγος στην τοπική κοινωνία εν μέσω καλοκαιριού! Θα επιστρέψουμε κοντά σας μόλις έχουμε νεώτερα... Ο αστυνόμος Μακρής έκλεισε το ραδιόφωνο με αργές, σχεδόν θεατρικές κινήσεις. Όχι πως ήταν λάτρης του σανιδιού · μάλλον το αντίθετο. Τον επιβράδυνε περισσότερο η σκέψη της τελευταίας φράσης που άκουσε. Θα επιστρέψουμε κοντά σας μόλις έχουμε νεώτερα... Ήξερε τι σήμαινε αυτό. Το τηλέφωνο θα χτυπούσε σύντομα. Στην Αλεξανδρούπολη επικρατούσε πνιγηρή ζέστη. Ο απογευματινός παραλιακός περίπατος περισσότερο είχε αυξήσει παρά ανακουφίσει τη δυσφορία που ήδη ένιωθε. Βέβαια δεν ήταν μόνο ο καιρός. Στην πρα...

Solace

The city swirls and swirls undoing itself, in all the ways possible. From this side, the sun warms the skin differently and as I walk deeper in the gardens I am not sure what year I find myself in, or if it matters. I borrow someone else's face as I am allowed and I am confidently another, or maybe many at once, while the square circles me and around me; the only thing that makes sense in the moment. The trees have stored the memory of you, their roots absorbing the pace of your walk, their leaves reflecting your, likewise, many faces. A woman who resembles me stares from the surface of a pond sprouting next to my feet; and she also looks like you, the many versions of you that are all me now. Tavistock square, London, 25 April 2025.

Μετά τα μεσάνυχτα

Κι αν έρθει το φως αργότερα απ' το ξημέρωμα αν έρθει το φως και δεν είσαι εσύ μαζί του, τι φως σκοτεινό θα είναι αυτό; Γενάρης 2025, Αθήνα. Φωτογραφία: Σπιανάδα, Κέρκυρα, Δεκέμβρης 2024.

Safe place

What it feels like to watch the ferry sail from ashore an island remote urged to absorb and write about all; the smallness of the houses the vastness of the stars the firmness of the mountain and the thriving sun the stove warmth the cricket songs the raven flights the goat bells from within the heights; what it is like looking for the winter in the uncanny light of the dusk and wanting to stop, eat up the day, and again start. Once, I walked at night in the dark crossing the ancient forest and ever since I walk, the forest every night. Samothraki, November 2024.

The desert island of Samothraki

Samothraki, a remote island in Northeastern Greece... 3 days without electricity as a result of the supply station in the mainland across having been damaged by the fires blazing across the East Macedonia &Thrace Region (now known to be the largest wildfire recorded on European soil in years). There used to be an independent electric station on the island which 20 years ago was closed down on the grounds of the island's population reducing. Since then, the electric supply on the island has deteriorated. Evidently, it is harder for people to remain or move to an island were electricity is not a given. See how the circle goes? 3 days with restricted access to telecommunications due to the local antennas being electrically powered. On the first day, large parts of the island had no access to water due to water pumps being electrically powered. On the first day, and while Samothraki had been for days on Amber alert for fire hazard, the sole ferry connecting t...

Where the world ends

I drag my senses, exhausted and washed up, to the furthermost shore as the horizon turns for the last time until the windy air tastes like salt and my mind is confused enough to let go. The waves return every time like a promise of what's yet to come, but don't make it close enough. Sometimes this place feels ready to collapse right into the sea - as if this is the only rational sequence of things. The chirps of the evening birds stand out in the deafening wind coming from where the mountain starts rising somewhere far behind; an observer of the scene. Surely, the birds will fly away and won't be devoured by the sea; unless they decide to change their songs. May 2025, Kipoi – Samothraki.

Στοές

Μια σπάνια παχύρρευστη ησυχία κουτρουβαλά τα σκαλιά της παλιάς πόλης · σα μουσική που δεν ακούστηκε ποτέ. Μόλις τελειώσουν οι γιορτές και πήξει το σκοτάδι θα πέσουμε στη χειμερία μας νάρκη. Και θα βλέπω πάλι σκιές γνώριμες να ξεπροβάλλουν από υπόγειες διαδρομές, και να χάνονται πάλι μέσα τους. “ Δε φταίει ο χειμώνας. Φταίει ότι στο τέλος του έχουμε ήδη μεγαλώσει.”* Κέρκυρα, Γενάρης 2025. * Ευριπίδης Κλεόπας, Ατέρμονη θάλασσα (2020), εκδ. Μελάνι.

Iranian auras

As the eastern sky fills with explosions and smoke I try to reach you, my dear friend, through interrupted phone lines and networks cut off, at times unsuccessfully. I try to mark your last known location on the map measure its distance from the latest bombings and conclude that you are far from this all, far enough for me to pretend I sleep at nights. The weather warms up fast and in my uneasy sleep I dream about planes crashing and bombs hiding underneath our feet. I wake up upset in the middle of the quietest night; Iran is 30 minutes ahead of Athens summer time, still no word from you. June 2025, Athens. Picture: Cloud formations above Ch ó ra, Samothraki; May 2025.

Dreamwalks

I. The light so eternal shapes you in the world. II. You float bluer than any dream. III. I hold you on the surface before you slip from me away and beneath. IV. The morning star fades in the bergamot atmosphere. V. I long for dreams asleep and awake and always. VI. Night flights above us and I envy their promises, each and every single one of them. VII. Cricket songs as the night deepens first and foremost in my heart. VIII. Night flights now mistaken for rushing stars. IX. Rushed smokes in-between card turns quiet games underneath a quieter sky. X. You thrive in the light of the dashing dawn. (“You always look so cool”, Daisy Buchanan would have said instead.) XI. A taste of salt and sunscreen memories elsewhere short-lived. XII. The sun burns now and suddenly the mind more than the skin. XIII. The summer deepens; deeper than its nights deeper than the sea. XIV. The sun die...

A month being "portless": the final evacuation of the makeshift refugee camp at the port of Piraeus and its traces in history and society.

Port of Piraeus, Gate E3, playground time, 13 March 2016. Wednesday, 27 th July 2016, 09:00 am. As we were driving inside the port, we saw at the horizon three coaches parking close to the last remaining refugees’ tents, under the bridge, close to the formerly evacuated Gate of E1. We had all been informed that the port would soon be completely evacuated, but we had been given no exact date. As we walked to the food distribution point to prepare the breakfast, one of the coaches’ drivers asked whether they should come closer for the people to start embarking. We had no answer. But something whispered in my ear, this would be our last ever meal. Port of Piraeus, Gate E1, lunch distribution, 3 May 2016. Photo courtesy of Pierre Haddad. Port of Piraeus, close to the bridge, breakfast distribution for the remaining refugees of the camp, 22 July 2016 (one of ...

Poetic Movements

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