To Move in Samothraki

Finding the Gods -

Palaiápoli.

Worshiping the Nature -

entry to the Griá waterfalls.

Ascending and descending -

the Griá waterfalls.

Climbing; together -

the Griá waterfalls.

Camping free -

the Griá waterfalls.

Becoming "natural" -

the Griá waterfalls.

Going higher -

the Griá waterfalls.

Discovering -

Platiá seaside at noon.

Balancing -

Platiá seaside at dusk.

Darkness falls -

Platiá campsite.

Inspiring -

Thérma square.

Improvising dance -

Thérma square.

Improvising music -

Thérma square.

Local festival; choreographed dance -

Chóra.

Photographs: summers of 2012 & 2013, island of Samothraki, Greece.

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Έγκλημα στη Σαμοθράκη

Συγκλονιστικές είναι οι εξελίξεις σχετικά με το μέχρι στιγμής ανεξιχνίαστο έγκλημα στη Σαμοθράκη. Η σωρός του Μολδαβού επιχειρηματία βρέθηκε τελικά σε δύσβατο κομμάτι του βράχου Βρυχού, περιφερειακά του οικισμού της Χώρας. Η αστυνομία κάνει λόγο για δολοφονία, αλλά δεν έχει δώσει προς το παρόν λεπτομέρειες για τυχόν υπόπτους ή για τον τρόπο που αφαιρέθηκε η ζωή του θύματος! Ρίγος στην τοπική κοινωνία εν μέσω καλοκαιριού! Θα επιστρέψουμε κοντά σας μόλις έχουμε νεώτερα... Ο αστυνόμος Μακρής έκλεισε το ραδιόφωνο με αργές, σχεδόν θεατρικές κινήσεις. Όχι πως ήταν λάτρης του σανιδιού · μάλλον το αντίθετο. Τον επιβράδυνε περισσότερο η σκέψη της τελευταίας φράσης που άκουσε. Θα επιστρέψουμε κοντά σας μόλις έχουμε νεώτερα... Ήξερε τι σήμαινε αυτό. Το τηλέφωνο θα χτυπούσε σύντομα. Στην Αλεξανδρούπολη επικρατούσε πνιγηρή ζέστη. Ο απογευματινός παραλιακός περίπατος περισσότερο είχε αυξήσει παρά ανακουφίσει τη δυσφορία που ήδη ένιωθε. Βέβαια δεν ήταν μόνο ο καιρός. Στην πρα...

Solace

The city swirls and swirls undoing itself, in all the ways possible. From this side, the sun warms the skin differently and as I walk deeper in the gardens I am not sure what year I find myself in, or if it matters. I borrow someone else's face as I am allowed and I am confidently another, or maybe many at once, while the square circles me and around me; the only thing that makes sense in the moment. The trees have stored the memory of you, their roots absorbing the pace of your walk, their leaves reflecting your, likewise, many faces. A woman who resembles me stares from the surface of a pond sprouting next to my feet; and she also looks like you, the many versions of you that are all me now. Tavistock square, London, 25 April 2025.

Μετά τα μεσάνυχτα

Κι αν έρθει το φως αργότερα απ' το ξημέρωμα αν έρθει το φως και δεν είσαι εσύ μαζί του, τι φως σκοτεινό θα είναι αυτό; Γενάρης 2025, Αθήνα. Φωτογραφία: Σπιανάδα, Κέρκυρα, Δεκέμβρης 2024.

Where the world ends

I drag my senses, exhausted and washed up, to the furthermost shore as the horizon turns for the last time until the windy air tastes like salt and my mind is confused enough to let go. The waves return every time like a promise of what's yet to come, but don't make it close enough. Sometimes this place feels ready to collapse right into the sea - as if this is the only rational sequence of things. The chirps of the evening birds stand out in the deafening wind coming from where the mountain starts rising somewhere far behind; an observer of the scene. Surely, the birds will fly away and won't be devoured by the sea; unless they decide to change their songs. May 2025, Kipoi – Samothraki.

Iranian auras

As the eastern sky fills with explosions and smoke I try to reach you, my dear friend, through interrupted phone lines and networks cut off, at times unsuccessfully. I try to mark your last known location on the map measure its distance from the latest bombings and conclude that you are far from this all, far enough for me to pretend I sleep at nights. The weather warms up fast and in my uneasy sleep I dream about planes crashing and bombs hiding underneath our feet. I wake up upset in the middle of the quietest night; Iran is 30 minutes ahead of Athens summer time, still no word from you. June 2025, Athens. Picture: Cloud formations above Ch ó ra, Samothraki; May 2025.

Safe place

What it feels like to watch the ferry sail from ashore an island remote urged to absorb and write about all; the smallness of the houses the vastness of the stars the firmness of the mountain and the thriving sun the stove warmth the cricket songs the raven flights the goat bells from within the heights; what it is like looking for the winter in the uncanny light of the dusk and wanting to stop, eat up the day, and again start. Once, I walked at night in the dark crossing the ancient forest and ever since I walk, the forest every night. Samothraki, November 2024.

The desert island of Samothraki

Samothraki, a remote island in Northeastern Greece... 3 days without electricity as a result of the supply station in the mainland across having been damaged by the fires blazing across the East Macedonia &Thrace Region (now known to be the largest wildfire recorded on European soil in years). There used to be an independent electric station on the island which 20 years ago was closed down on the grounds of the island's population reducing. Since then, the electric supply on the island has deteriorated. Evidently, it is harder for people to remain or move to an island were electricity is not a given. See how the circle goes? 3 days with restricted access to telecommunications due to the local antennas being electrically powered. On the first day, large parts of the island had no access to water due to water pumps being electrically powered. On the first day, and while Samothraki had been for days on Amber alert for fire hazard, the sole ferry connecting t...

Dreamwalks

I. The light so eternal shapes you in the world. II. You float bluer than any dream. III. I hold you on the surface before you slip from me away and beneath. IV. The morning star fades in the bergamot atmosphere. V. I long for dreams asleep and awake and always. VI. Night flights above us and I envy their promises, each and every single one of them. VII. Cricket songs as the night deepens first and foremost in my heart. VIII. Night flights now mistaken for rushing stars. IX. Rushed smokes in-between card turns quiet games underneath a quieter sky. X. You thrive in the light of the dashing dawn. (“You always look so cool”, Daisy Buchanan would have said instead.) XI. A taste of salt and sunscreen memories elsewhere short-lived. XII. The sun burns now and suddenly the mind more than the skin. XIII. The summer deepens; deeper than its nights deeper than the sea. XIV. The sun die...

Στοές

Μια σπάνια παχύρρευστη ησυχία κουτρουβαλά τα σκαλιά της παλιάς πόλης · σα μουσική που δεν ακούστηκε ποτέ. Μόλις τελειώσουν οι γιορτές και πήξει το σκοτάδι θα πέσουμε στη χειμερία μας νάρκη. Και θα βλέπω πάλι σκιές γνώριμες να ξεπροβάλλουν από υπόγειες διαδρομές, και να χάνονται πάλι μέσα τους. “ Δε φταίει ο χειμώνας. Φταίει ότι στο τέλος του έχουμε ήδη μεγαλώσει.”* Κέρκυρα, Γενάρης 2025. * Ευριπίδης Κλεόπας, Ατέρμονη θάλασσα (2020), εκδ. Μελάνι.

A month being "portless": the final evacuation of the makeshift refugee camp at the port of Piraeus and its traces in history and society.

Port of Piraeus, Gate E3, playground time, 13 March 2016. Wednesday, 27 th July 2016, 09:00 am. As we were driving inside the port, we saw at the horizon three coaches parking close to the last remaining refugees’ tents, under the bridge, close to the formerly evacuated Gate of E1. We had all been informed that the port would soon be completely evacuated, but we had been given no exact date. As we walked to the food distribution point to prepare the breakfast, one of the coaches’ drivers asked whether they should come closer for the people to start embarking. We had no answer. But something whispered in my ear, this would be our last ever meal. Port of Piraeus, Gate E1, lunch distribution, 3 May 2016. Photo courtesy of Pierre Haddad. Port of Piraeus, close to the bridge, breakfast distribution for the remaining refugees of the camp, 22 July 2016 (one of ...

Poetic Movements

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